snakes & schools; holy river & holy tourist trap

Saturday October 31 2009

..... snakes, camels, monkeys, oxen

So this turned out to be one remarkable day!. It is almost impossible to convy the emotion, the stories of Christian dedication and sacrifice, the smells, the myriad of visual stimuli – all that India is.

Our team traveled in two rented vans – really taxis. It was a little over two hours to our destination, longer on the way back due to traffic jams leaving Haridware and again upon travelling through Dehradun. The smell of diesel is strong in the India traffic congestion - it would be quite a challenge for my wife Yvonne. I prayed my asthma could handle this, and it has PTL!. Sometimes those riding on scooters or walking have scarves over their faces to help with this. The main culprit – other than the fact that there are too many people, too many trash fires, too many vehicles - there are too many 3 wheeler open air cabs. In Delhi these must now all be natural gas. Dehradun district has proposed the same restrictions but I gather this is not well received by the '3 – wheeler taxi union!'

Our drive took us trough two stretches of National Forest, and monkeys played along the roadside in these locations. At one point we saw a caravan of camels along the road but we came upon them so quickly no one was able to snap a photo.

We were moving out of the mountain foothills onto the agricultural plain, so oxen - pulled carts were plentiful – just one more type of vehicle sharing the the narrow roads – with scooters, cars, buses, trucks, 3-wheel motorized rick-shaws (George calls these 'miss-guided missiles'), bikes, pedestrians – and of course, cows, dogs, and hogs. The traffic eased a little after we moved through Haridware with all its pilgrims – more on that later. Eventually we found ourselves in the thick of of sugar cane fields – taller than our vehicles.

Close to our destination, hidden down a sugar cane field lane, just past a dirt poor village of subsistance farmers and scavengers and livestock, is a squatters village of 'snake charmers'. This is the lowest level of human existence I have seen in my life. These make-shift huts are beyond imagination. However most of the girls are dressed – but some little boys have nothing to wear. The village came to life as our vans stopped. No tourist is going to see this place, but because this ministry reaches these children, it is ok for us to stop. Before we know it all the children have gathered and one teenage boy brings 3 snakes to show us. The python is in a dirty brown bag, it is the largest; one basket contains a cobra, one a boa constrictor (I think). All conversation with the locals is in Hindi. A flute is not needed to get the cobra to dance (snakes cannot hear) – it is all done with hand motion. I am told these snakes are local to the area.

During the height of pilgrimage season to Haridware, the snake handlers will make some good money putting their snakes on public display – snakes are considered holy to devout Hindus.

Our ministry leaders gave the village spokesperson a few rupees – an older woman who was yelling at the top of her lungs, arguing, demanding, much more than the custom donation for our 15 minute stop.

Khrist Jyoti Academy is hidden down a narrow raod through sugar cane fields. As we saw this school Jim and I believed this to be a physical and spiritual

..... oasis hidden in the middle of the sugar cane field

A faithful Christian sold her Mercedes and donated $15,000 to purchase the land. She continued to raise funds for the building of this amazing school.Before that the school operated out of rented facilities, having to move 3 times in 5 years.

School facts:
...320 students in grades pre JK through 8
...182 children come at 4 pm for special tutoring and a hot meal – this is in patnership with Compassion International Ministries – the monthly sponsoring of children funds the evening (late afternoon ministry)
...60 of the 182 are academy students
...60 of the 182 come from the 'snake charmers village'
...this is one of 7 schools run by the ministry (only 3 have buildings – others are rented facilities)
...virtually all of the children (academy and afternoon) are 'Dalits', the lowest caste, the 'untouchables'
...the building has been built in such a way that additional schoolrooms can be added to a 2nd level of the existing building. About $50,000 is needed to make the school useable through grade 12. It is important to add a grade each year. Otherwise students will never complete their education. It is difficult to get a child into a new school in the higher grades. Right now this school is out of classroom space.
...The existing staff building needs additional apartments. Again the existing 3 flat building was constructed in such a way that 3 more can be added when funds become available.

The Principal of the school and his wife entertained our team of 14 for lunch. Very modest accomodation with unreliable water and electricity. Yet the dedication of school staff is inspiring. Sathosh George and his wife both graduated from NTC and came to this school in Pathri 5 years ago. Sadly this couple lost their only child less than 2 weeks ago (a seven or 8 year old born with diabilities) – and we were blessed by their gracious hospitality during this mourning period.

We also heard of another aspect to the ministry: a women and infant program designed to asist with education in the areas of hygeine, health, care of children. 60 ladies are involved (4 are pregnant at this time and 56 have infants.) Home visits are so important: most of these women are Dalits and have husbands who are alcoholics and/or virtually unreliable and of little or no help in raising the children. It is precious to know that they are being shown the love of Christ in practical ways.Even the fact that they have been taught to write their name is significant progress.


Notice in the pics how disciplined the children are as they leave school for the day – bikes in single file and will not be ridden until outside the school gate (just need the adults on Indian roads to learn this lesson!)
the school bus is a bicycle powered cage; we watched in amazement as 19 (honest truth) were squeezed into this contraption. I think the driver told us that he will take each child to their home.


Everytime we entered a classroom the children would rise as one and greet us “good morning sir”. They smiled, attended to their teacher, and were a delight.


..... the holy river, the holy tourist trap

The Ganges River flows from the mountains, the home of the spirits and gods. To bathe in its waters is a very special and holy ritual which can improve your fortunes when it comes to oneness with god and improve your status in the next life.The city of Haridware is a holy city (“door to god”). It is undergoing significant infrastructure improvement in anticipation of next year's special festival (it comes to this city only once every 12 years). Millions of people and vehicles will try and get into this city. Buses are hired and trains are filled with pilgrims even now. Next year will be, in my humble opinion, unmanageable; the crowds and pollution and noise will be at a level beyond imagination. It was not a comfortable place. Spiritually oppressive, dirty, noisey (Hindu shrines seem to have a love affair with loud music played through loud speakers!). It had a carnival atmosphere. But it is very important that we see what draws Hindu pilgrims from all over the world.



So many NTC grads have remained in North Africa to be front-line missionaries for Jesus. Their stories inspire, astound, amaze. They face opposition and hardship. As I get to see more and more of the dark oppression Hinduism has left as its legacy, my heart is humbled and broken. The caste system, though officially abolished, is alive and well. People are kept in bodndage to poverty and superstition. Women may have it better in Hinduism than Islam, but it is still difficult. I have met some of the most courageous servants of Jesus who work in some of the most difficult places on earth. I have had the privilege of befriending future leaders and servants of ministry in North India. The students are a joy to be around. I am better, deeper spiritually, more blessed due to this interaction – in the classroom, in worship, at prayer meetings, on the sports field.

about the college

About the College

The academic year began in late June. Students arrived from 26 of the 28 states in India, and 3 foreign countries. Different denominations and traditions are represented among both faculty and students.

NTC is now in its 21st year – the growth has been steady. George Chavanikamannil (no wonder they call him 'Uncle George' ) and his wife Leela founded the school, and the initial vision was for perhaps 10 students. That seemed reasonable as north India is not one of the two strong areas of Christianity in this country. But God blessed the vision, and the campus is now 25 acres – the original plan was for 5!

Academic programs: B.Divinity; B.Theology (two programs, one in English and one in Hindi); M. Divinity; Diploma in Worship & Music;

But the Society theat sponsors/overseas the NTC ministry is larger than just the College: there are also primary schools and orphanages, and a network of hundreds of churches, many new church plants. NTC graduates will serve as pastors of these churches and teachers of the schools.

The 5th orphanage has just opened – located in the eastern state of Assam. This is a state with much poverty and parents sell their children for as little as 100 Rupees ($2.27 cdn) as they are unable to take care of them. Pastor K.P. Philipose is working hard to get the necessary permissions to continue care for about 20 children.

I am amazed at the resolve and courage these students have to do compassionate ministry in the name of Christ – in a country filled with opposition, active persecution and incredible spiritual oppression. I am humbled.

..... church planting through opening schools

Graduates of NTC do church work in remote areas. One is leading a new church up in the mountains – in one of the 5 Hindu holy cities, the tributaries that feed the Ganges River. These 5 river sources become special holy cities. There are another 7 holy cities throughout India, fed by the tears of a special Hindu god. This pastor has a vision to eventually network 5 christian churches in these 5 holy mountain cities. A church is started by offering excellent education to the children. From a quality school the church emerges naturally. It comes from within the community. One does not just walk into a village or city and 'start a church'. But a new school is quite welcome. Hindus want their children to learn well. And they will tolerate, actually affirm, these schools. Generally, public school teachers are perceived to be lazy and uninterested. I obviously cannot comment intelligently on that generalization, but this is what I am told. This year NTC started a Christian academy for 3 lower grades, and George thinks it would have been good to start this school about 10 years ago. But they had to wait until excellent leadership was available. Students come from the NTC campus faculty as well as many children in the community.

There are plans to build a school building in an open field on the NTC campus. Currently the academy uses the lower floor of a boys' residence. Money gifts are needed to fund the finishing work to a second campus gate and road as well as the new school building. There is a demand from the community for additional schools. Enrollment will not be a problem.

Our group from North America will get to visit two of the schools in the NTC family – one on Saturday October 31 and one on Monday November 02.

who let the dogs out?

NTC Thursday October 29 2009 3:30 am

..... who let the dogs out?

Stray dogs, not really 'wild like coyote dogs' are everywhere. Some make their way onto campus. They roam the streets with the cows, the people, the scooters and cars. 'Free roaming dogs and cows' do not seem to bother anyone. I have witnessed no aggressive dogs or cows – just motorized vehicles. The animals are well fed as the roadside piles of garbage & trash are everywhere. This is all taken for granted and part of the culture. The only trash cans/receptacles I have seen are those located on campus. These photos were taken standing on the rock wall which acts as a fence along the roadside boundary for NTC. The trash lies against the wall for a few hundred yards. Difficult to say on which side of the wall it originated.

With the increase emphasis on “going green” that I read in the daily newspapers, and with Christians around the globe finally recognizing how important 'creation care' is, one wonders if India will soon see both some cosmetic changes to the landscape as well as attitude impacting activity – hopefully with Christians taking the lead! Time will tell.

People will eventually try and burn some of the trash piles. Campfires are always burning by the many outdoor restaurant carts. So the valley is filled on a daily basis with a foul stench and smoke fog (not as bad as the pollution in Delhi though!) For my Creston friends, it can sometimes get like the CV when the Idaho farmers decide that since the wind is blowing north it is time to burn their fields.

Sometimes the dogs get into night-time barking contests which echo through the valley. It is loud and constant, and I wake up most nights.

From yesterday's newspaper:
1.The sports section is dominated by photos and writing on the sport of professional cricket. Editorials complain that Indian cricket fans suffer from 'sports fatigue' and are calling for a shorter season. (I've heard this song elsewhere.)
2.7% of the Himalayian glaciers disappear each year
3.The Indian government has issued a travel alert, encouraging its citizens to refrain from traveling to neighbouring Pakistan due to escalating terrorism violence in recent weeks.this is disappointing news as many Sikh's from the State of Punjab wish to visit next week for Gurpurah – the birth anniversary celebration of Guru Nanak Dev, who was born near Lahore, Pakistan.
4.Speaking of religious travel, the Indian government annually financially supports Indian Haj, the annual pilgrimage of Muslims to Mecca. Air India has Haj airfare Delhi or Mumbai to Jeddah listed at 16,000 rupees while the regular traveller pays 80,000 to 90,000 rupees. Criticism comes for both Muslims and non-Muslims. The first group is sensing that such special assistance gives them a bad name, while the second group feels that the debt-ridden national airline Air India is receiving indirect 'bail-out' money. George tells us that one state in India will provide scholarship money for Christian Indians to do pilgrimage to the Holy Land. (let's play fair I guess)

Dehradun details

NTC, Dehradun, North India
Tuesday Oct 27 2009 9 pm

Dehradun:
capital of Uttarakhand State
gateway to the mountain cities and villages
altitude 640 metres
a city of research stations, residential schools,
home of Indian Military Academy (think West Point) (we feel safe here!)
home of Institute of Petroleum Exploration, Institute of Himalayan Geology and the wild Life Institute of of India
meaning: Dehra = 'camp'; Dun (Doon) = 'valley between the mountains'


... from today's newspaper:

1.There is an ice skating oval being constructed in Dehradun. Officials are worried that it will not be ready for the South Asian federation Winter Games scheduled for this State in January 2010. Canadian officials will make the inspection of the facility. There is an ad in the paper recruiting skaters between ages 5 -12!
2.There is a new trend among corporate India executives to put their leadership & management teams through a “fire walking” motivational and team building event. The idea is to increase confidence levels and therefore productivity and efficiency and morale. The seminar builds to the main event. First there is marble stick breaking followed by lively games and then enjoyable dances. Finally a 4 foot by 9 foot trench is filled with charcoal and doused in petrol. Once it is lit and red hot, the employees go for their barefoot walk - of course with motivational exhortation first: “nothing is impossible, everything is achievable” is the mantra. Men are asked to roll up their trousers before they take their walk. Women are asked not to wear silk pants or saris. ... interesting that the leaders of this event were trained in the United States.
3.341 days until the 2010 Commonwelath Games in Delhi (I don't know how athletes will breathe)
4.Number of cellphone towers in Delhi = 4,532; number of illegal cellphone towers in Delhi = 2,517
5.Tips on how to avoid 'winter depression'. Mood swings and dullness and psychological disorders are on the upsing as we enter winter. (Good grief: it's sunny and hot everyday! This elates me!)
6.the Power Regulatory Commission has given approval to a hike in power tariffs in Uttarakhand: up to 15% increase retroactive to the 1st of this month. (Question: will it also mean 15% less daily interruption of service time?)

adrenaline rush

Monday October 26 2009 – NTC – 10 pm

Well, what a disappointment. This afternoon, after the power came back on there was a brief hope the internet might work. No where on campus could I find a wireless hotspot or a computer with a regular connection. Jim got online for a few minutes, long enough to check on his on-line college students back home. The library computer gave me a few minutes for a quick email but there was no usb port for my stick. I wanted to paste into the blog stuff I have been writing.

So at 5 pm I packed up my computer and got set for the drive of a lifetime!

..... more exhilerating than any Disney ride! Dr. George (our host), Dr. Jim (my traveling & ministry mentor) and I jumped in the van with Johnson, our professional driver. George had to go to downtown Deharadun to buy a new cell phone. We went along on this fearful expedition, thinking that it might not matter if the internet never came back on. You have seen Tokyo or Mexico city pictures I am sure – some of you have driven in NYC or on Toronto's Front Street after the Blue Jays game – this was Dehradun, not even Delhi. This is a city in the foothills of the mountains. Yet the traffic (vehicular, pedestrian, motor bike and regular bike) is astonishing. In India you can drive a car without wheels but it must have a horn! The greatest thrill came after we parked the car (a parking lots shared with half a dozen roaming cows) and crossed the street. You have seen the show “fearfactor”? No kind of traffic yields to anything here. You literally put your hand out, not to point or ask traffic to stop, but to push the bikes and vehicles so that you can squeeze your body through a narrow opening.Everyone, everything, has the right of way.

The shanty stores,the wagon restaurants & vegetable stands line the roads into the city. Once in the urban centre, any available space is used as a storefront and they are all busy even after darkness has set in. The more established 'real' stores are about 5 feet wide and 20 feet deep. And these cubicles sell anything you can think of – appliances, clothes, material, shoes, books, electronics. The electric lines running all this capitalistic effort, have been spliced into in such a fashion that it puts my spagetti Christmas electric cord extravaganza to shame. Scattered among the rustic downtown merchants you will see the golden arches, dominoes, Pizza Hut ... While George and Johnson bought the phone, Jim and I stood at the curb and just took it all in. Horns never stop. Vehicles drive with about 2 inches between bumpers, there are no lanes – but you know what? - I never heard any 'road rage'. Really. It is just a way of life. In NA we have bumper to bumper non-moving traffic jams. This is a slow moving traffic jam. Rarely are you stopped for more than a few seconds. No traffic lights make turns difficult, but it does keep the traffic moving.

Nothing spiritual about this post I guess – except that now I really know how to trust in the Lord!

Dehradun headlines

Monday October 26 2009 3 pm
NTC

I walked from the guest house to the library to see if they had internet yet. No internet anywhere on campus. Even Professor Matt Kuiper from Michigan (he and his wife plus their 3 children have been serving in ministry in various parts of India) can't get his satellite stick to connect to the internet! That is not all, my battery on the computer had reached the 'red line' and I was hoping the administrative building had electricity. So there I was, with about a dozen students in the computer lab (the computer lab a gift from West congregational Church in Haverhill through their Interim Minister, Dr. Tim Tennent, now the new President of Asbury Seminary in Wilmore, Kentucky) – all of us waiting. Finally we hear the buzz and within a split second the place becomes a behive of work again. Didn't get your homework done? It is not “the dog ate it” excuse, it is “the power was off”.

So I'm back in the room writing. Outside feels like the hottest day yet. No a/c because this is winter, so I turned on the fan.

..... from yesterday's Dehradun english speaking newspaper:

1.The city of Dehradun, aprox. 80,000 people, is in the state of Uttarakhand. This state has 968 glaciers! The Himalaya's are now being called the earth's 'third pole'. And they are changing like the other poles. There is some new research going on, attempting to see if it is global warming or climate change causing the problems. I think both are related.

2. Looks like 8 movies are on in this city: 6 of them are advertised in English, 2 in Hindi (the other official language of India, along with English, – but more common in North India) and 6 in English. I do not recognize any titles, even the english ones, and I do not know if these movies are subtitled, dubbed or what.

3.There is a gathering of medical experts going on right now – in the mountain city of Mussoorie. This city is high in the mountains, and visible from down here at the college. I hope to visit Mussoorie this week. The pics should be amazing! The ride up though, another story! Anyway, the experts have discovered a particularly alarming rate of gastric cancer among Tibetans. 55% of the test sample! It seems Tibetans consume too much junk food: like momos (?) and chowmein on a daily basis. They also eat a lot of refined flour, which gets stuck in the digestive tract causing constipation. Who knew?

4.The lines for emergency medical care and lab tests at government hospitals are way too long – yes, that's from this newspaper, not the one you are reading. And there is a nurse's strike in this state right now.